When I was at the Full moon party in Koh Phangan we had a tight-knit family of fellow travelers staying at the hostel. There was one person staying there that didn’t talk to anyone and only appeared a few times in five days. I didn’t think much of him because we never spoke… but after a few additional sightings I now realize, I would be doing my life a disservice if I didn’t find him and beg him teach me his ways. Here’s all I know:
Thailand
Island of Ko Phangan, 4:00am. Hostel – Sleeps with random girl in what was described by other traveler as “Most aggressive silent sex I’ve ever seen”. First sighting after second day of check in.
Island of Koh Tao, 1:00am, 38 miles from original sighting. Bar – Walks by me in hot pursuit of group of girls. Success unknown.
Bangkok, Ko San Road 8:00pm, 290 miles from original sighting – Walks by the bar I’m in, down the road in hot pursuit of blond girl (See photo). Effort failed.
Thailand/ Cambodian Border 1:00pm, 429 miles from original sighting – Getting visa.
Cambodia
Siam Reap, Mad Monkey Hostel, 7:00pm, 519 miles from original sighting – On roof top bar wasted talking to group of girls.
Siam Reap, 11:00am, 519.1 miles from original sighting – See at the end of the road, driving by in a Tuk Tuk drinking a beer… 11:00am.
During all of the legendary sightings, he wears the same iconic pink tank top and radiates unlimited amounts of swag. I hope he will accept me under his wing and teach me his ways!
Angkor Wat is just one of the many temples spread across a huge area on the outskirts of the city of Siem Reep, Cambodia. Although Angkor Wat temple seems to symbolize the area, it’s Ta Prohm temple which appears responsible for its fame through its starring roll in the movie Tomb Raider with Angelina Joli.
All the temples are truly amazing and this site is one of my favorite historic sites that I’ve seen. If you do follow the tourist trail through the temples, you will find yourself distracted by the swarm of tourists snapping photos down narrow passage ways. Rounding one corner I was growled at by a Japanese man taking a photo, so I gave him some time before I walked through and was growled at again. I finally turned to him and asked him if he wanted to see a repeat of WWII (Kidding!). The good news; If you want to avoid the crowds you can simply check out some of the temples off the trail which are just as fascinating and the absence of tourists can make them far more enjoyable.
The history of the site is relatively unknown. Some say battles between then Siem’s and the Burmese led to the cities downfall. Others claim the land was stripped of all its resources making it uninhabitable. As with most ancient abandoned cites, I’m sure it’s a combination of the two. The city which had an estimated population of 1 million depended on a complex yet vulnerable water management system of canals and reservoirs and it was attacked many times throughout history.
Whatever the reason, I’m glad it was abandoned. If it wasn’t, it would look like every other modern city with a few crumbling ruins left behind. See the remains of the Bulgarian medieval city wall in the food court of a mall and you’ll know what I mean.
To see the Temples: Most hire a tuk tuk for $15 to drive them to the most popular sites for the day. Many opt to see the sunrise which means an early 4:45am departure from your hostel/ guesthouse, but it is well worth it because it’s pretty, and you can get a jump on the lazier tourists and the afternoon heat. Entry is $20 for one day or $40 for a three days pass.
I took a ton of photos here and had to learn how to make the albums below so I wouldn’t take up the whole site.
Well it looks like I was wrong. Thankfully! My clip of “Drunk Kid Catches Face on Fire” didn’t do anything special. So I’m back to spending way too much time editing a 30 second clip together. This is Tex and Dave flipping out in Cambodia. The footage is theirs, the editing was mine and the awesome tune is by Matt Brown – “Slow Down (Coastal Mix)”. Matt’s Website.
A clear plastic bottle was knocked around in the waves among the cans of Angkor and bottles of whiskey from the previous nights bonfire on the Island of Ko Ta Kiev. The bottle stood out because the label had been cleanly ripped off and a faded note had been stuck inside. The note was from a couple traveling between the islands of Koh Pha Ngan and Ko Tao, Thailand about 250 miles away. All the note asked for was an email to let them know who found it and where, but I wondered if they were looking for much more. Maybe hoping the bottle found a place where the lonely planet hadn’t built cities full of tourists, where the sounds of waves haven’t been replaced with blaring techno beats. If so, the bottle had come to the the right place, but I wasn’t going to waste my time or theirs telling them where. There’s a reason why.
Originally I traveled from a Mini version Bangkok, Phenom Pen Cambodia, where people travel for hundreds of miles to see the Killing Fields of the Khmer Rouge regime and party in clubs where the only females are westerners or prostitutes. Heading south I avoided the coastal city of Serendipity which ironically means “pleasant surprise” as most run away after one night of stepping over 20 something year olds throwing up in the surf. About 15 minutes south there’s Otres, a quiet stretch of beach run primarily by a laid back community of expats where you can relax and buy a beer or a joint for a dollar.
Sitting at the hostel on Otres beach, which is more like a wooden structure with a roof and soft padded bowl chairs, a pretty blond Danish girl that resembles Sal from “The Beach” walked in (Birdy). After a friendly chat we made rough plans to travel to one of the islands off the coast together. These islands are several tiny islands that you won’t hear about until you get close to them. All I knew is they are apparently what the Thai island used to be.
A few mornings later I wake up for the 8am boat with a pounding headache and “the fear” (the fear of what you did the night before) because of an argument with a canadian girl (Quebec). I give myself 20 minutes to decide if I can stomach packing a bag and jumping on a boat. I think, fuck it.
On the boat I realize the night of drinking grew our island crew from three people to eleven. Four guys and seven girls total, not a bad ratio on a deserted island.
A boat ride to the island typically cost about $12 dollars per person each way, but we found a way to book a day boat trip with breakfast, lunch, drop off and pick up from the island the next day for $12 each. On the island we grabbed the only two bungalows available and a decaying two story tree house chained to several trees 20 feet in the air for $5 a piece.
Once settled in on the island the hangover waned enough to get a bearing on the situation and to realize where I was. Ko Ta Kiev, an empty island off the coast of Cambodia, with white sand beaches, clear turquoise water,and a few bungalows, the infamous absinthe distillery and our crew of backpackers. The Beach 2 began.
The day was filled with laying around, swimming, making Angkor Watt sand castles, improv’d games of baseball and throwing fruits at bottles for points. Among the crew there was a beautiful tan Canadian girl (Mel) that was the only appropriate character for my girlfriend in the The Beach 2, but unfortunately, like the first movie she had a good looking French speaking boyfriend who was also good at soccer (Tebo).
That night we started a bonfire, drank whiskey, beer, played games that had many people stripped of their clothes and swam in the ocean lit by swarms of glowing plankton into the early morning. A night so serene and amazing, all we could do is fight time to keep it from slipping away.
After finally surrendering to exhaustion I woke up on the second floor of the tree house looking over the ocean with the only trace of the previous night, a sand pit with a few smoldering coals, a makeshift sign that read “The Bitch” (clearly a misspelling) and a few bottles one of which included “the note”.
So why wouldn’t I tell the couple who wrote the note about this paradise? Because by the time they would get there, the island wouldn’t be. In one month the bungalows on the island have been instructed to shut down to make way for a Chinese casino that has leased the island for 99 years. But, I’m not mad. What made our time together on the island so special wasn’t the people or the island. It was our individual pursuit to find something more. A pursuit that has brought us through hell and back. Endless nights on sleeper trains, through hostels, venturing thousands of miles in aggressive pursuit of the unknown for the mere possibility that a night like ours would happen, and when it did it was magical. That’s what made our night special. The only way anyone will find that is by searching themselves.
I am psyched! I arrived in Vietnam last night, grabbed a beer and went to bed. This morning I woke up with two pieces of gold in my pocket… First I checked my bank account and currently have $31,953,542.00 in it, so I’ll tell all the people that have pissed me off to “suck it” in a minute. Second, I have a 40% discount to one of Asia’s top 5 mens spas!
Spa – “…You will have a good opportunity to enjoy a quiet “romantic” place that helps you relax after a hard-working time. There will be many “pleasant surprises” when you come here”.
So hold my calls, I’m off to be romanced at Vietnams #1 mens spa. Can’t wait for those surprises!
There’s a fine line in the media world between creating interesting content and hurting the very people who made it possible. What started as a conversation with a bartender on the quiet beach of Otres in South Western Cambodia, quickly evolved in to a wild story about the Khmer New Year. What should have stayed as a great story to share among travelers quickly evolved into a nightmare to all those involved… thanks to a journalist.
On the island there is a small Absinthe distillery that is rumored to make the strongest Absinthe in the world (High alcohol and lots of wormwood). The island is so small there isn’t much in the way accommodations, so many rely on a campground for a good nights sleep.
Take island camping, lots of alcohol, a reason to celebrate and top it off with people on vacation, what do you get… Obviously a quiet night with a good book (or, maybe drinking and sex). Throw in a journalist with bad intentions and you get this article, with teachers and travelers fearing for their future (this journalist friended one of the people on Facebook and grabbed their names from a photo with everyone tagged. Some were able to get their names removed).
I’m not even going to get into the article because there is so much embellishment anyone reading it can see she had a motive. What I will say is it is a shame that some lack the creativity to entertain and inform without sacrificing the very people who helped them.
Although, just in case I missed something, I think it is my journalistic responsibility to go and check out this island’s Absinthe sex orgy myself. See you in a few days.
PS. Read about how the full moon party got started… I wonder if in a few years people will flock to this island in a similar way for the “Absence ‘Org’anization Party” with full moons lining up and down the beach… just remember you read it here first.
Not much has happened in the past few weeks… Had Christmas, had New Years, saw temples, museums, fell in love, got caught in love triangle, watched gang fight, got dragged out of bar because of friends actions, got chased by 20 eight year olds going for my wallet, chased by transexual prostitutes going for same wallet, got off motor scooter that crashed two minutes later… pretty quiet and typical. Because not much has been going on, here’s an awesome video to kill some time. Creative, entertaining and filmed by a friend of the owner of the “Wish you were here” hostels on Otres Beach Cambodia. It’s also one of my favorite travel shorts. Enjoy!
There’s a few versions to the story of how the Full Moon Party in Thailand got started. This is the one I believe;
Several travelers met each other on the small Island of Koh Pha-ngan and hit it off immediately. They had such a great time together that when their visit was coming to an end they decided to have a party on the beach. It turned into an amazing night with a full moon that lit the whole beach. Each of them traveled telling others about this amazing party they had on the Island of Koh Pha-ngan during the full moon. People who heard their story interpreted it as a party that happens during the full moon on Koh Pha-ngan and they too wanted to have this great experience. From there it snowballed. People showed up partied and told others. Repeat…
Today it’s a massive celebration of 20,000 – 50,000 people on the beach of Haad Rin on the island of Koh Phangan. Many people will dismiss the party saying it’s lost it’s original charm as an underground party for those “in the know”, but it’s still a pretty amazing phenomenon.
What you need to know;
Where to Stay – You can stay right on Haad Rin, but it’s expensive and loud until 8am. Many hostels require a minimum of 4-5 nights and for some the price almost triples on the night of the full moon (Avg. $15 a night, $39 Full Moon night), but you’re right in the action. Another option is staying elsewhere on the Island. My first full moon I found a bungalow for $4 a night on the west side of the island (and I split it with someone so it only cost $2). Transportation on the island is easy and cost about $3 to go anywhere on the vans you see all around. You can rent a scooter for cheap, but I heard one statistic that one person dies every full moon party drunk on a scooter. The last option, which a lot of people do, but I wouldn’t recommend it, is to stay on Koh Samui and take a taxi boat over. Think about a hangover then jumping on a giant cano shaped boat on the ocean with an unmuffeled car engine to get back to your bed. No thanks.
What to Do – Most get buckets of booze and get drunk. Many fall under the spell of Mellow Mountain (Mushroom Mountain) where you can order the Infamous mushroom shakes. If you dare to try one, take half! You’ll be steeping over plenty of passed out bodies all party long which is usually the result of a full shake.
If you arrive early, not to worry, there are also several parties the days leading up to the full moon party;
Coral Bungalow Pool Party – There’s free transportation and it’s absolute mayhem. One word of warning is the pool. Everyone appears to be having sex in the pool with people they just met, so do the math… you’re probably not swimming alone.
Jungle Party – Many say this is better than the Full Moon Party. I think it’s just drunker. While most are charging up for the Full Moon the true diehard party goers are here exercising their livers. It’s has a cool jungle vibe but is small and lacks options (ie. Bars, ATMS, Music, etc).
Things to note:
Buckets! – When you handover 100 Bhat ($3) for a bucket, bottle of booze, Thai Red Bull and a soda, know that’s not what you’re actually getting. What you’re buying is a left over bottle from the last party refilled with bathtub moonshine, some caffeine concoction and a can of soda. Do what you like, but I’d recommend running to one of the several Seven Elevens and buying the ingredence yourself. Won’t cost much more and you’ll know what you’re putting in your body.
Traveling alone – What makes the full moon party amazing is the location and the people. The dorm hostels with 40 person rooms sounds intimidating, but you’re bound to meet some amazing people and have a great night. I stayed at “Full Moon Hostel” and would recommend it.